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Absorption
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The ability to take on moisture while experiencing a physical change.
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Aniline Dyed
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Leather that has been dyed throughout by immersion in a dye-bath and has not received
any coating of pigmented finish. This form of transparent dye penetrates the hide
with color.
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Bi-cast
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Application of polyurethane surface coating on a split or top grain leather.
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Buffing
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Leather which has been smoothed by mechanical abrasion to minimize surface blemishes,
such as healed scars. This technique obliterates much of the natural grain, therefore
the leather is normally embossed to flatten or create a grain-like appearance as
much as possible.
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Chromium Tanning
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Upholstery leather which has been tanned with chromium salts. This method makes
the hide flexible and supple.
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Corrected Grain Leather
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Leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing and upon
which a new surface has been created by various finishes (e.g. embossing).
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Crocking
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The rubbing off of surface substances or color onto another material. Commonly referred
to as dye transfer.
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Crust
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Leather that has been tanned, dyed, and dried – but not finished.
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Distressed
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Process used to create an effect resembling a worn look or an aged appearance. Techniques
used to create this effect include tumbling the hides with abrasive items in order
to scratch the leather’s surface.
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Drum Dyed
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Leather is immersed in a drum with dyes and tumbled to insure complete color absorption.
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Embossing
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Process of printing leather with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling
an animal grain pattern. A unique pattern may be embossed on the leather that is
unrelated to the natural grain pattern. Leathers are pressed with an embossing plate
under heat and pressure to either lay out the grain as smoothly as possible or to
impart a textured effect. Embossing may also be done to disguise defects or blemishes.
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Fat Liquoring
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Process of replacing oils that have been depleted from the hide during the tanning
process.
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Fat Wrinkle
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Natural wrinkles in the leather’s grain that are unique to each hide. Normally visible
only in full grain leathers. Common around the neck and shoulder areas of the hide.
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Finishing
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Any process performed after the initial dyeing stage such as buffing, embossing,
milling, spraying, etc. These leathers are treated with a topcoat substance to help
provide abrasion and stain resistance. These substances can be lacquers, varnishes,
polymers, or enamels. The finishing substance may also include additional pigments
and/or dyes.
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Full Grain
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Leather which has not been buffed or abraded retaining all natural markings and
characteristics.
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Glazed
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Leather treated with a pigment containing not only gloss, but also protection.
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Gloss Finish
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Higher shine/sheen level finish usually with enhanced texture added.
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Grain
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Pattern characterized by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, visible
on the outer surface of a hide after the hair has been removed.
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Hand
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Term describing the leather’s degree of softness and feel as well as the reaction
of the sense of touch when leather is held in the hand.
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Hand Antiqued
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Hand application of a darker color over a lighter color creating a dramatic highlight.
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Hide
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The whole or entire skin of a larger animal, usually cattle, for upholstery leather.
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Leather
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A hide or skin that has been tanned into a non-perishable material.
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Matte Finish
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Low gloss finish usually with enhanced texture added.
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Micropigment
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Coloring of the hide by using a coating which contains clear, transparent pigments.
This coating can also be accompanied by a thin layer of opaque pigmentation creating
a more uniform shade.
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Milling/Tumbling
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Process in which tanned hides are placed in drums with heat and water and tumbled
to create a desired softness or effect.
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Naked Leather
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Tanned, aniline dyed leather that has no protective top coat. Commonly referred
to as pure aniline.
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Nap / Pile
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A “suede like” effect achieved by buffing to raise the natural fibers of the leather’s
surface.
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Natural Grain
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Leather whose grain has not been altered in any way. The natural appearance of the
grain is predominant showing visibly healed scars, fat wrinkles, insect bites, etc.
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Nubuck
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Top grain, aniline dyed leather that has been buffed to create a “suede like” nap
effect.
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Patina
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Surface luster that develops on Pure Aniline Leathers and Nubuck Leathers which
grows more beautiful with use and the passing of time.
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Pigment Finish
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Coloring of the hide by using a coating which contains pigments and other opaque
materials. This finish creates a more uniform shade and an increased resistance
to fading.
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Pull-Up
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Leather that derives its look and some colorations from dyes and oils. When the
leather is pulled during upholstering, the oils in the leather cause the color to
migrate and become lighter. Pull-ups are dominated by either waxes or oils, or a
combination of both.
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Pure Aniline
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Leather that is aniline dyed and exhibits natural markings and characteristics because
the grain has not been altered in any way.
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Sauvage / Kela
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Two-toned effect in which a darker color is applied over a lighter color. This effect
can be created during the finishing process either with a roller or spray equipment,
or by hand. Similar to faux finishes on walls.
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Semi-Aniline
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Leather that has been aniline dyed throughout then protected by a clear or pigmented
finish coating thus creating a more consistent color than pure aniline leathers.
Natural markings may be visible with semi-aniline leathers.
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Split Grain
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The underneath layer of a hide which has been “split” off when the top grain is
separated. If finished, the split is heavily embossed and surfaced treated.
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Suede
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Leather produced from the underneath layer/lower split of a hide possessing a velvet-like
nap effect. Suedes do not have the same durable characteristics as top grain leathers.
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Tanning
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Process using tanning agents to convert a raw hide into a stable, non-perishable
material. Tanning strips the hide of indigenous color making it receptive to color
dyes.
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Top Grain
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Top part of the skin or hide. The grain may be either Full Grain or Embossed Grain.
The Top Grain of the hide is stronger and more flexible.
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Vegetable Tanning
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Leather which has been processed by using tannins obtained from bark, wood, or other
parts of plants and trees. Although this tanning process adds to the toughness of
leather, it also limits the stretching of the leather. Vegetable tanned leathers
are used more commonly manufacturing shoes, bridles, handbags, etc.
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Wet Blue
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Refers to the “blue” color and appearance created by the chromium tanning process.
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